Our third area of escape from the tourist throngs of Paris is at the very last stop on the Metro Line number 1; the Chateau de Vincennes and the adjacent Bois de Vincennes. This is an immense area at the edge of Paris that was once a royal hunting ground, and today offers the crowd weary traveler both a fascinating piece of French history and an enjoyable respite. 

Upon exiting the Metro you will be just across the street from the Chateau de Vincennes. The Chateau is essentially a mini-Versailles with a medieval castle to go along with it – and one of the few fully preserved Donjons (or Keeps) in all of Europe. The grounds were once a royal residence complete with administrative buildings, royal residences, and its own cathedral - all of which is still intact.

The Donjon has a rich history including being a prison during the French Revolution (Mirabeau was briefly jailed here), headquarters to chief of the French Army at the outset of WWII, and SS headquarters during the German occupation. 

It's a fascinating place to visit – and the grounds offer a lovely place to sit on the grass and read a book too. Entry to the Chateau is free – and €8 to go inside the Donjon and Cathedral. And not only is it an interesting place to visit, it also happens to not be inundated with foreign tourists; yet.

Adjacent to the Chateau is the immense Bois de Vincennes - essentially a giant park - which includes 4 lakes, a zoo, and miles and miles of scenic paths and picnic areas. This is where Parisians come to escape the city - and at three-times the size of New York's Central Park you will find it quite easy to have a little elbow room and breathing space all your own. 


http://en.chateau-vincennes.fr/weeblylink_new_window

Over the last 15 years I've noticed a distinct increase in the number of tourists coming to Paris. This spring I was there for over two months and visited nearly all the major (and several lesser known) museums at least once - and that trend seems to have advanced considerably. The major museums of Paris are absolutely crammed with tourists. 

And if you opt to go on the free first Sunday of the month - you can expect what can only be called a 'mob scene' at the Louvre, Musée d'Orsay, or any of the major venues. Indeed, the salons of the Louvre seemed more like packed rush hour metro stations than a museum on a couple of my visits.

So after a few weeks of this I decided to begin seeking out some of the lesser known museums of Paris in an effort to find a little breathing space and calm as I strolled thru the exhibits. And fortunately there are quite a few of these smaller museums scattered around the city which definitely offer a less "sardine-like" experience to the crowd weary visitor.

I discovered one of them just two short blocks from the southwest corner of Luxembourg Park in the heart of Montparnasse. It's the Musée Zadkine. This is a small museum displaying some of the work of Ossip Zadkine (1890-1967), a Russian sculptor who settled in Paris after WWI. Zadkine was a Cubist - but as time went by he became greatly influenced by African art, and his most famous works reflect a melding of the two genres.

The Musée Zadkine occupies the house where the sculptor lived with his wife, the French artist Valentine Prax, until his death in 1967. And a visit to this small museum is the perfect antidote for anyone seeking a break from the throngs elsewhere.

Located at 100 bis Rue d'Assas, it is situated behind a quite unremarkable industrial building which belies the existence of anything artistic nearby. But just to the left of this building (if you're facing it) you will find a small - seemingly private - driveway. Follow this to the rear of the building and voilà - you arrive at a quaint two-story house (itself a rarity in apartment building dense Paris) with a small sculpture garden displaying several of Zakine's works. 

The museum occupies the ground floor of the house and all of the work studio on the other side of the sculpture garden. And while small - the collection is excellent. In-fact, on display is Zadkine's Torse de Pomone - a wood sculpture and one of the most extraordinary and captivating examples of Cubism I've ever seen. It alone is worth a visit. And along with Zakine's work you will also find several pieces by his wife - as well as a rotating repertoire of visiting artists.  

Sitting in the sculpture garden of this little gem, you would never know that a big, frenetic city is close by. A visit here is like entering another place and time. And in a sense - that is exactly what you've done. Admission to the house is €4 - or you could simply visit the studio portion and sculpture garden for free. 
It's not to be missed.


http://www.paris.fr/loisirs/musees-expos/musee-zadkine/p6471weeblylink_new_window

A trip to Paris is a dream come true for many people. In-fact, Paris is the most visited city on Earth. Unfortunately, this fact can also somewhat degrade the experience you came to Paris to enjoy. There are areas of Paris where you can walk for blocks - with thousands of people around you - and never hear French spoken once. And the crush of humanity eventually begins to just wear you down. 

Want to see the Mona Lisa (la Jaconde) at the Louvre? Good luck at getting within 100 feet of her. Visiting Notre Dame Cathedral? Bring a good book; the line to get in can last an hour or more. And this is true of many other popular, well-know sites in Paris. Fortunately - for you - Paris is full of wonders, and many of them are not so well known to the average tourist. 

Today begins a five-part series on cool places to go in Paris that are - so far - undiscovered by foreign tourists.

One of the best of these is only a couple of blocks from the Place de la Bastille and is a place where Parisians go to escape both the hectic city and the tourists. It's called the Promenade Plantée (also called the Coulée Verte). It is an oasis of nature and calm right in the heart of Paris - yet if you didn't know it was there, you could walk right past it without noticing.

To find it begin at the Opéra Bastille. With your back to the Opéra turn left and begin walking down the Rue de Lyon. Just past the last of the Opéra buildings take the street that veers to the left - Avenue Daumesnil. After about 50 yards you will notice, on your left, a red brick structure with arches and shops on the street level that extends down the avenue as far as you can see. 

This structure is actually an old elevated railway. And while on the street level it does indeed house shops and restaurants, above all of this is a truly wonderful and unexpected surprise.

At the very beginning of the structure you will see a stairwell which leads to the top. And there are additional stairwells about every quarter mile. Once you're up on the second level you will see that the tracks are gone and have been replaced by a beautifully landscaped park - with a walkway where the tracks once ran. 

As you stroll down this walkway there will be benches, fountains and grassy areas all along the way where you can sit and enjoy the sun, read a book - or just enjoy the peaceful atmosphere. And there are also restaurants and bistros scattered along the route. 

You are still in the heart of Paris - but you would never know it. The noise and hustle bustle of the city seem a million miles away. This walkway extends for 3 miles all the way to the Boulevard Periphérique which surrounds Paris - and nary a tourist (except for you) in sight. 

So when you reach that point in your Paris vacation when the crowds which infest everywhere you want to visit have started to drive you nuts - escape from it all the way real Parisians do and take a stroll on the Promenade Plantée. It's one of the most pleasant undiscovered secrets of Paris.

Let's face it; getting exercise while visiting Paris is not really that difficult. You need only rely on the Metro for transportation - and that alone will insure you go up and down many staircases and walk several kilometers each day of your trip. Or you could simply rent an apartment in Montmartre where there are stairs to be navigated on virtually every street. But if you're looking for something a little more structured - and fun - how about a nice swim?

There are several public pools scattered around Paris - but most of them are single pools with limited hours that are usually quite crowded. But smack in the middle of Montparnasse you will find the best swimming experience to be had in the city of light - Piscine Armand Massard, 66 Boulevard du Montparnasse (tel. 01 45 38 65 19).

Admission is just €3 - open to the public daily. Check for times:

 http://ville.france.free.fr/horaires_piscines/ARMAND_MASSARD.php

It can be a little tricky to find - but just remember that it's in the complex of buildings in which is also located le Tour Montparnasse  (the Montparnasse Tower)- in the basement - at the end farthest from the Gare Montparnasse.

This facility is a delight. First of all - it's not just one pool, but two large pools - and one smaller shallow pool perfect for children or water isometrics.
With two large pools available there is room enough for areas devoted to both lap swimming and free-style. And the pools are heated just right to make for a quite enjoyable dip.


The dressing area is for both men and women, and is equipped with private changing rooms. The lockers are large enough for all your clothes and a backpack (not the case at other Paris pools) and each has an electronic combination (like a hotel safe) so you needn't bring a padlock. And the entire area is kept spotless. 

In-fact, hygiene is a high priority at the pool - so all swimmers are required to wear speedo style swim-suits - and bathing caps. If you brought neither with you - fear not - they sell them at the pool for a quite reasonable price. Swim suits €10 and caps €4. The shower area is quite large and clean - and just before entering the pool each swimmer must walk through one final 'foot bath'.
Wall mounted hair dryers are also provided free of charge.

So if you're feeling the need for an  energizing exercise experience - at a very reasonable price - head over toMontparnasse for one of the best swimming experiences you'll find anywhere.